The ABCs on visiting Bonaire: Diving, desert, dining and more
Small Dutch Caribbean island is in a constant summer state of mind
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“Bonaire? Where’s that?” Turns out it’s almost as simple as “ABC!”
You wouldn’t be alone in asking that question (I know I did) as the island and Dutch special municipality is lesser known than Aruba and Curacao (together they comprise the “ABC Islands”) only welcoming about 170,000 visitors a year.
Yet not being overrun is just the way Bonaire wants it, which makes it the hidden gem of this terrific trio of tucked away Caribbean beauties.
Located about 80 km off the coast of Venezuela and 30 km east of Curacao, Bonaire is often lauded as unspoiled given that it’s largely untouched, with wild donkeys and goats roaming about (note for driving: they have the right of way!), few big-chain names, and no traffic lights. And the locals and tourists alike prefer it that way.
The island has been ecologically focused for decades — its slogan, after all, is “It’s in our nature” — and balances economic development with sustainability practices. In recent years they’ve even asked tourists to do their part by signing the Bonaire Bond destination pledge, which essentially asks visitors to help preserve the natural environment (aka don’t break anything or leave a mess — a reasonable ask, right?).
Those already with the inside scoop on the offerings of Bonaire are divers as the island has been rated the top shore diving spot in the Caribbean for more than three decades. About 70% of its surface is coral limestone (as our guide put it, “The island is just one piece of coral rising from the ocean”) and its waters have been protected since 1979 as the Bonaire National Marine Park. There are more than 85 official dive sites — identified by yellow-painted rocks along the roads with cool names on them — and 350 species of fish and 57 varieties of coral for snorkellers and divers to easily explore.
How easy? It’s like an aquarium right off the beach with big and little fish of all colours, conch and barracuda within mere feet of shore. Truly mind blowing.
BONAIRE BONAZA
As one would expect, water sports and activities like fishing are a big lure to Bonaire. Though the trade winds make it a great spot for wind surfing and kite boarding, our group took to kayaks for a guided tour of the mangrove forests of Lac Bay on the island’s eastern shore.
Offered by the Mangrove Info Center, we learned about the endangered ecosystem, the three species of mangrove trees in the forest, saw turtles and even got to snorkel in the crystal-clear waters that act as a nursery for many of the fish around Bonaire. Oh, and then there were the flamingoes — Bonaire’s national bird — being treated at the centre’s Wild Bird Rehab that we got to ogle too.
Washington Slagbaai Park in the north covers 17% of the island and offers hiking trails, mountain biking, water activities, camping and 50 km of unpaved roads best to explore with vehicles that have high ground clearance. There’s also a museum of natural history with interesting facts about the wildlife, vegetation, archeology on the island, history of the plantations and more. Be sure to have a chat or tour with chief ranger George “Kultura” Thode, who is a wealth of knowledge having been involved with the park since he was a child.
In Rincon, the oldest village on the island, is Mangazina Di Rei (The King’s Repository), which lets you dive into Bonaire culture. The building that had been used in the 19th century to store rations for slaves now is a learning centre sharing the Bonairean way of life — including how to make a cactus fence.
Also be sure while in Rincon to visit Cadushy Distillery, the only distillery on the island and producing the world’s only liqueur made from cactus. They also produce spirits like rum, vodka, whisky and gin.
In the south you can’t miss the pink salt flats that are behind a thriving industry due to the perfect combination of ocean, sun and wind. The huge salt pyramids are 50-feet high. Also visit Bonaire’s first lighthouse from 1837, Willemstoren, and the slave huts from 1850 that served as sleeping quarters for the slaves working in the salt ponds.
TASTE OF BONAIRE
— Don’t miss out on having one of owner Chef Tham’s burgers or wraps made with invasive lionfish for lunch at Cactus Blue Food Truck at dive site Corporal Meiss, also called “Donkey Beach.” Caught by certified lionfish hunters using special spears, the “labour-intensive delicacy” served on a toasted bun with spinach, tomato and honey mustard dressing is a daily sellout so be sure to get there when it opens at 11 a.m.! The menu also has beef and chicken burgers and veggie wraps and daily fresh juices.
— Bagel & Bloom, in the capital Kralendijk (meaning coral dike), is a beautiful restaurant that — among other items — serves the most delicious bagel sandwiches.
— Take a cruise with Melisa Sailing and enjoy being served dinner on deck while looking at the marvellous shoreline of Bonaire and Klein Bonaire (a small, uninhabited island off Bonaire’s west coast).
— For a fine-dining experience, reserve a seat at Chefs, at Bamboo Bonaire boutique resort, where the chefs interact with a small group of guests in a relaxed atmosphere as they prepare such dishes as Caribbean Snook fillet breaded with chicharron crumble, sweet corn beurre blanc and lobster oil.
— Watch people night diving while savouring each Italian, Spanish and French-influenced plate at fine-dining Ingridients Restaurant, located at Buddy Dive Resort.
— Book a visit to Ocean Oasis Beach Club where you can be pampered as you dine, drink and lounge on the beach in a beautiful setting.
BEDTIME FOR BONAIRE
Harbour Village Beach Club has been the lodging choice of Dutch Princess Beatrix and is a lush paradise with the only private beach on the island, The water is clear, and the fish are plentiful — there’s even a live feed in the lobby from a camera offshore showing the marine life magic. For dining, its La Balandra Restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, is designed after an antique Spanish ship with its dining deck on a jetty over the sea offering great views.
I felt grand in my ground-floor beachfront suite — complete with living room, kitchenette and lanais — at the 40-room boutique property, which also offers an on-site full concierge dive service including scuba lessons and certification, two pools (one adult only), a spa, fitness centre, and 64-slip marina.
For an all-inclusive option, Plaza Beach and Dive Resort has undergone a remodel and offers a casino — and has a killer lunch buffet.
BONAIRE BITS
— The official language is Dutch but the native language is Papiamentu, which our guide described as “like a very broken Spanish.” You’ll see “bon bini” a lot, which means welcome in Papiamentu. English is widely spoken.
— Situated outside the hurricane zone, it has a year-round average temperature of 30C and less than 500 millimetres of rain annually. (It can be hot and shade can be hard to find in the desert-like conditions so pack a hat and reef-friendly sunscreen!)
— Currency is the U.S. dollar.
— On Atlantic Standard Time.
— The international airport is named Flamingo International (yes, it’s true — and the terminal is pink!).
— Vehicle rental is the best way to get around and driving is done on the right. Many of the roads are bumpy, but that just forces you to slow down — which works with the overall pace of the island.
— Bonaire distills and purifies seawater for its drinking water and about 50% of the island’s electricity is wind powered.
— Equipment is available to rent on the island. We got our snorkel gear through VIP Diving.
— Non-residents of Bonaire must pay a visitor entry tax of US$75 for ages 13 and older and $10 for 12 and under. You can register in advance online at tourismtax.bonairegov.com, receiving a QR code to show on arrival to avoid a wait.
— STINAPA National Parks Foundation manages Bonaire’s two nature parks for the government with almost all the funding from visitors so there’s also a $40 nature fee (stinapa.bonairenaturefee.org).
— WestJet Airlines offers a non-stop five-and-a-half-hour flight from Toronto (December through mid-April) and other airlines offer connecting flights through U.S. cities, such as American Airlines via Miami.
— Find out more at bonaireisland.com.
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